Boot or shoe.



R. E. BARTELS.

BOOT OR SHOE.

APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. 4, 191s.

11,089,036, Patented M3113, 1914.

i ance or wearing UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE.'

REINHARD E; BARTELS, 0F NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT OR SHOE.

moschee.

Specicationof Letters Patent.

u Patented Mar. 3, 1914.

Application filed September 4, 1913. Serial No. 788,100.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, REINHARD Ef BAR- TELs, acitizen of the United States, and a' l@ne-of the factors of increasedcost has been the increasing cost of the upper leather which must'beused since no effective substitute has beenv found -whichwill take theplace` of leather in shoe making. The use or omission of a small amountof leather varies the cost of the' shoe, particularly in shoes of highgrade.

rllhe object of the present invention is to effect a material saving inthe cost of construction ofa. given boot` or shoe by decreasing theamount of leather used in its manufacture, without detracting from itsappearqualities, ,and at the Same time to provide va better shoe byeliminating the stretching which permits a shoe to become mis-sli'apeninthe .course of a short time.

According to the usual process of manufacture, the upper and ,thelining, which is usually of relatively light material, are placed uponthe last, and attached temporarily to the inner sole, after which theshoe is either welted and stitched or turned stitched or is McKaystitched to secure the outer so-le thereto. In the preliminarypulling-over operation, the fringe lor loose marginal port-ions of theupper are overlapped upon the inner sole, and tacks or fastenings aredriven therethrough into the inner sole. rllhen the edge of the leatherupper andthe .welt are sewed to the inner sole by-'stitches passingthrough the leather upper, or the sole is sewed on by a- McKay machineor a turn machine, the stitches passing through the marginal portion ofthe' leatherupper.

According to' my invention, I cut the u per so that the edge or marginthereof will not be piercedu by the stitching or welting operation, andso that it will terminate short of the line of the welt stitches'or theMcKay stitches. lIn this way, I effect a material saving'of the leather.Further, between the lining andthe leather I place one or more layers offlexible, substantially non-extensible material, suchas heavy drill orcanvas,

which are secured at their upper edges to the leather by the usual seamswhich are employed in forming the upper. This-layer or layers has amarginal portion which projects materially beyond the bottom "margin ofthe upper leather, so that it can receive the fasteners and the stitcheswhich are used in soling or bottoming the shoe. And the-n,

the marginof the leather is secured by one or more lines of stitches tothe non-extensible layer, so that it will be secured in place and hiddenby 'the welt or by the sole according to the character of the shoe.' Inthis way, Ido not have to consider thestretch of the leather, and theuppers may therefore be cut from any portion of the skin. Consequentlythe entire skin may be used to the greatest advantage.

As a direct consequence of my invention, I am able to effect a materialsaving since I am able touse very thin leather of fine texture whichwould be otherwise practical-ly`impossible to employ because of itslimpness and liability to stretch. On the accompanying drawing,-Figi 1re1 represents a pump or slipper embodying the invention. Fi of before itand flic other parts are assembled on the last. Fig 3 represents asection on the line 3--3Y of Fig. 2.' Fig. 4 slows the .pump or slipperafterthe upper has been pulled over or lasted and secured to the insole,preparatory to the attachment of theouter sole by an McKay sewingmachine. Fig. 5 represents a transverse sectionL 2 shows the uppertherethrough the ball ofthe completed pump.4 Fig."6 represents alongitudinal sectionv through the toe of a 4shoe embodying the-invention. Fig. 7 represents a transverse sec-1.

tion through a welt shoe embodying the invention- By the use of the termappended' claims, I meanto include footwear of' all kinds,boots, shoes,pumps, slippers, etc.

shoe in the place by a line of stitches indicated at 12 *which passthrough both the outer sole and the inner sole. The upper consists of anKouter layer, 18 ofl leather which forms the vamp of the shoe. Withinthe vamp is the usual thin lining 14e which, at its upper edge, issecured to the ed e of the vamp in any of the ,usual ways.therleatherva-mp there is a layer of flexible 'non-elastic material,drill, canvas or the like, as indicated .at"l5. Only one layer may beutilized, or, if desired, I may employ two layers as shown in Figs. 3and 5. There the upper. is to be employed in aYIcKayy shoe, the leatherportion 13 is cut so that its marginwill extend a. short distance intothe y f space betweerrthe inner sole and the outer sole, as shown inFig. 5, and yet not far enough so as to be penetrated by the line ofstitches 12. By reference to Fig. 2, it Will. i

bc seen that a relatively large marginal area of the layers 15 isexposed to View, this exposed,` portion indicating the amount of leatherwhich'is saved by thus cutting the leather vamp.' The exterior -marginof the leather vamp is secured to the interior layer or layers l5 by`one or more lines of stitches 1 6. Hence, when the `upper is pulled overthelast andpthe intermediate layer 15 is drawn taut about the last andis secured in place, the leather vamp isxther'eby drawn over the edge ofthev inner sole and is likewise secured in place. rlhe line of stitches16 is so located that it is Concealed when .the shoe is finished /theedge of the upper being likewise concealed.

The upper edge of thereinforce is also secured to the upper, edgevof.the vamp by the line of stitches which secure the lining thereto,assh'own at 21 in Fig. 1.d

It Will be observed that the vamp is provided with a toe' cap -19 whichis connected n to the front endfthereof by one or more lines of stitches20 extending across the upperfromone `side edge to the other. Thsestitches penetrate the reinforce or intermediate layer so that the toecap is secured thereto. The line of stitches 16 extends around thecurved margin of the toe'cap so that the latter is attached to thereinforce around its entire margin or edge. The extremity ofthe toe cap,as shown'm Fig. 6,

' terminates short of the stitches which conneet the upper to the bottomof the sol/e. Frequently the toe cap is made of enameledleather, and thecracking of the cap, which etween the lining and absence is dueto thelasting operation, entails considerable expense or loss. 'IUhis isdue tothe fact that Ythe leather is flexible and expansie ble, whereas theenamel is fnonexpansible, and consequently,l when the leather isstretched, cracks are formed where the leather is drawn over the innersole. By

securing the edges of the toe cap tothe re inforce, \the leather `is"prevented n from'Y stretching, and@ thus eliminate the cracking andinjuring of the enamel,L This is a valuable yfeature of the inventionwhiclu may be utilized independently of the otheiffeatures; that is tosay, whether or not the ball andshank portions of the upper be providedwith the reinforce, the toe cap may be provided with the reinforce andbe stitched' thereto along its margins for the purpose of saving the toecap from cracking.

ln- Fig. G, I have shown the invention as embodied in a welt shoe. Inthis case, the

line of stitches 16 is hidden by the welt 17,

the edge of the leather vamp terminating just short of the stitches 18which secure the welt, the upper and the inner sole together.-

l inasmuch as Athereinforcing layer 15 of textile material is secured atits upper and V4lower'edges to the leather vamp, it will be of the shoebecoming distorted or mis-shapen after wear. It prevents the bulging ofthe upper laterally beyond the edges of the soley as frequently happenswhen the leather ist soft and spongy. By the use ofthe reinforced layer,therefore, it is possible to utilize substantially the entire skin inmaking the uppers, and there is no necessity for a careful spacing ofthepatternsv on particular portions of the skin as is-nowthc case.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described away o-f mak-v` ing and using the same, although Without attempting tonset forth' all of the forms in which it may be made or all of t-he modesof f its use, what I claim is y f 1. A shoe having a vamp, anon-elasticreinforce substantially coextensive in area With the vamp but,projecting beyond the bottom of the vamp, stitchesconnectingthe upperand lower margins of the. vamp to'the reinforce, and means yfor securingthe projecting marginal portion of the reinforce to the bottom of theshoe.

'2, A shoe having the usual inner andv of the vamp and is Secured to theinner sole, and stitches connecting the margin of the yamp to thereinforce.

3. A leather upper for shoes comprising .a vamp, a lining, anintermediate reinforce projecting beyond the bottom edge of the vamp,and stitches securing the upper und bottom margins of the vamp to thereinforce, whereby the projecting marginal portion of the reinforce maybe pulled over and secured to u sole, und by its connection with thei'anip secure the leather vamp in place with- -out. unduly stretchingthe leather vznnp.

of the stitches which secure the `reinforce to the sole.

A shoe having a leather vamp terminait-ing inv :1 toe cup, the bottommargin of the' vnmp and toe cap beingconcealed but terminating short.vor' the Seam connecting' the upper and the sole, a non-elasticreilliorce whose hottomf portion projects beyond the margin of the vampand toe cap and is secured to the solo, and stitches connecting theupper and lower margins of the vamp and toe cap to the reinforce.

In testimony whereof I lmve' ullixel my signature, in presence oi' twowitnesses.

v REINHARD E. BARTICLS. 'itnesses MARCUS 13. MM', P. lV. PEZZI-irri.

